Beta Please!!!

Do you need beta for a boulder problem? Well, post it here to find your solution to send it!

29 comments:

  1. Ned's arete-after left crimp 9' up??

    ReplyDelete
  2. Slap the right side of the arete on some slopers and then some high knobs and crimps at the top!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello-

    I have been to Rumbling Bald a handful of times, but not typically with locals. I was wondering if you could give me an idea of some area classics in the range of V4-V6, and maybe a couple 7's?
    I will be coming out for my birthday this year and would like to have a better idea of what to focus on.
    Thanks for any suggestions.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hey! I don't want to sound like a car salesman, but the best source for info is in the bouldering guide. You can pick one up in Asheville at REI, Climbmax, Black Dome, and Diamond Brand. However, to get you started some of my favorites are...

    The Egg V4
    The Sail V4
    The Unforgiven V4
    The Clumsy Waiter V4

    Doug Reed Top Rope V5
    Sleeping In The Devil's Bed V5
    Lost Cause V5
    Redneck Riviera V5

    Contact V6
    Crowbar V6
    Grease Pit V6

    11:11 V7
    The Butler V7
    The French Maid V7
    Morning Star V7

    Hope this helps! If you happen to purchase the guide or borrow one from a friend, it would be very helpful. Have fun and happy early birthday!

    God Bless, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thanks a ton Chris!
    you bro in Christ,
    Nick

    ReplyDelete
  6. that was supposed to be bRo - doh

    ReplyDelete
  7. Any news on the second edition of the guidebook?

    ReplyDelete
  8. Ahh yes... I know some of you out there are wondering about this. It always seems a mystery when our favorite guidebooks will be out. I can say this about the guide. I have been working on the 2nd edition for over a year. There are still many new boulders to explore and problems to send. I know that the guide will include all of these boulders, so with lots of hard work this season, I will be finished with the guide after this bouldering season. It will probably be in about a year or two before we see the 2nd edition of the guide in our hands. However, be patient because it will be well worth the wait. I have lots in store for us Rumbling Bald fans! Thanks for the interest! God Bless, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  9. How exactly did sunny side up get down graded to a four? Just wondering. Did the thing this weekend and thought it was way hard. Definitely harder than brackish water and the politician, which I did same day so I feel like those are good reference points for what a V8 is at the bald. Did I miss something? Or is the move to the weird pocket crimp easier than I thought?

    ReplyDelete
  10. Yea, that problem has been the topic of a lot of debate. I think the final grade will go in at V6. I remember using a crimp up and right that allowed us to skip some of those sloping pockets and edges out left. We started on the big rail with a heel hook, reached up and right to the crimp, and made a long reach (or dyno for some) to the lip of the boulder. We topped out the same as the usual problem. Hope this helps! God Bless, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  11. Can't they just be different climbs? I think i remember the crimp you're talking about, but we thought it wasn't on. From the start if you cross right hand to the odd sloping edge, throw a heel on the start, then hit left hand on that crimp way down low, cross right hand to the decent sloping crimp. After that, readjust the heel and lock that off to the good crimp waaay out left then hop to the jug. How is that the same climb as going straight up and a little right? I'm not trying to be a wiener I just thought the climb was really really cool and hard and I'm pretty proud I sent it. And also I heard brackish got down graded to v7. Is that true? But thanks for your response. And thanks for working so hard on the guide book/this site. Pretty awesome of you.

    ReplyDelete
  12. I remember working on the natural line of holds that went out left too. It is a nice line. I will have a look at it again before I put it in the guide. However, I prefer problems that are not eliminates, and I feel that Rumbling Bald reflects that. Most of the difficult and outstanding problems at the Bald are stand alone problems, all holds on, no holds off types of lines. There are those elimanates at the Bald as well. I will have another look at it soon and see what it looks like. As for Brackish... it is a solid V8 and the standard for most people. Thanks for the replies :)

    ReplyDelete
  13. Clear Water v10 and Fresh Water V11?

    Hey Guys, I wanted to get your opinion on Clear Water being V10 and Fresh Water as an V11. I did both today as my first day on them and they felt like a grade to high. I've been climbing a lot at LRC, Rocktown and HP40 and these grades seem WAY off compared to those areas. Any thoughts? I hate for Rumbling Bald to have really soft double digit climbs as everything else is so solid.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thoughts on the grades Panhandler & Brackish

    So I have read some of the blurbs on this blog about the grades for the Panhandler & Brackish and wanted to share some thoughts as I made the FA's and initially proposed the grades. At the time of the first ascents, I made a paper guide which Dorrity used for his guid. I've noticed from video that most people are doing these problems differently than I did when I proposed the grade.

    I never used the big jug out right on the Panhandler. Going back now, it seems like the obvious line but for whatever reason I didn't use this when I called it an 8. On brackish, I never exited on the left arete. I remember that everyone thought that the line should go directly up the second overhang so the race was between Hulcomb, Pascal and I who were all close. I believe I summited it first moving left and then making a BIG right hand move out the overhand to a crimp. Hulcomb later did it with fewer moves left and then pulling the roof. We both thought each line deserved an 8.

    I don't want anyone to think that I'm trying to belittle anyone's accomplishments. Everyone should climb the rocks with the rules they want and the grades don't really matter. I only offer this commentary for those who might care or who want to try the original lines. Revisiting these problems after several years, the lines which have become the "norm" are the more obvious lines.

    All the best, Greg Loomis

    ReplyDelete
  15. I agree that the grades of Clear Water and Fresh Water are perhaps a bit inflated. In fact, by going big to the large right hand sloper on Fresh Water as the first move, I think it may be slightly less difficult than Clear Water. However, they are somewhat different in style, so it's hard to say. Could both be v9?

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hey Ryan,

    Thanks for sharing your input. I agree with a 9 for each but didn’t want to be so harsh in my earlier post. I spent the weekend at LRC and climbed three 9's that felt very similar in difficulty. As an example, the blacksmith is comparable to Fresh Water in that it has many moves and a distinct ~v6 crux. The blacksmith is almost twice as long if you watch video. Just my opinion. All the best, Greg

    http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/blacksmith

    ReplyDelete
  17. To change the subject and to make sure I'm not taking the 'soft' line :) ... what is the 'direct' (v9) topout on Patio Roof? Some videos I've seen give v9 to anyone not using the flakes atop Terminator Exit but the book seems to suggest no traversing at all after the throw to the lip. Not to sound like Goldilocks with her porridge, but the first option seems too easy and the second seems too hard. Maybe I'm missing something?

    ReplyDelete
  18. I'm glad you brought that up! That is an iffy subject. If you top out directly straight over the top after you throw for the lip, it is ridiculously hard! I have not done the direct finish, but my best guess would be to traverse one or two moves to the left, and then try to mantle over with your feet still on the lip where you threw to earlier. It is very hard to guess where to top out, but the closer you top out to where you threw to the lip, the better. The flakes out left (Terminator Exit) are off route for sure.

    ReplyDelete
  19. And just to clarify my earlier post: I'm not trying to be harsh by suggesting that CW and FW could be v9. v9 is a fantastic grade, and these are both great problems. And hey -- the more v9s there are in the field (as opposed to v10s), the more there is for me to climb!

    ReplyDelete
  20. Preemptive Strike Beta?

    Has anyone done preemptive strike V9 on the Cave Boulder? I keep trying this and it feels impossible. Any beta would be greatly appreciated.

    Greg

    ReplyDelete
  21. Hey Greg!

    I know that Rob used a right toe hook under a small overlap out and right. It is real close to the side boulder, so it was hard not to dab heel-toe cam on the side boulder. He used it for balance. I found that it was best for me just to all out jump for the hold at the top and not use the toe hook. (I have not done it yet, though...) Hope this helps. I know that the problem is only 3 moves (two on the face, and one to throw to the top). Hope you get it! Also, try the projects to the right that start on top of the side boulder!

    ReplyDelete
  22. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  23. On Lewis' Lunge, there are two edges to bump to out right. Are they both on? The further hold is definitely better.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Both holds are on. Most people go to the left one and then up from there, but it is your choice!

    ReplyDelete
  25. Howdy. What is the official left hand start hold on Homewrecker? In the video of Dave Sharatt doing it (https://vimeo.com/20393825), he definitely starts on the better of several edges (he has pads stacked and he's tall). Is this the correct starting hold? There are worse left hand holds at about head level but maybe these are for the sit start. I'm all about stacking some pads if that's legit. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Stacking pads is totally legit on the Homewrecker. When I made the FA, I started with my left hand on the highest best crimp and my right hand low on the poor crimper on the face.

      Delete
    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  26. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete