NEW PROBLEMS

Here you will find new boulder problems, not found in the guide.

40 comments:

  1. Homewrecker V8 to V10? ***
    West Side, Washing Machine Area, The Washing Machine.
    FA: Greg Loomis
    We gazed at this line for many years... Greg got motivated and established this one within a few weeks.
    Start to the right of 11:11, at a steep dihedral. Climb up the steep dihedral to some good edges. Make some difficult moves out and right to gain the lip of the boulder. Mantle and top out.


    Orange Blossom V7 ***
    East Side, Breakfast Area, Pedestal Boulder.
    FA: Dave Sharratt
    This one was Project 3b) in the guide on page 92. Start sitting matched on edge, grap crimp, pop out right to bocky jug pinch and top out. Fun!


    Spicy Grits V4 to V5? ***
    East Side, Breakfast Area, Breakfast Boulder.
    FA: Dave Sharratt
    This one used to be Project 4a) on page 93. Committing, but fun on blocky holds.


    Roll Out V4 **
    West Side, The Terraces, The Porch.
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This problem is just to the left of Project 53b). To start this problem, step up onto a ledge that The Porch boulder is resting on. Reach up for a sloping shelf, get some small edges for footholds and reach out and right for a distant edge. Match hands on this, get a high left foot and then go for the top of the boulder. Mantle and top out.
    Project 53b) is a direct start (on the ground, not on the ledge), and still has not been sent.


    Prototype V3 *
    West Side, The Terraces, Paradigm Boulder (formerly Boulder #67).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Fun! Start to the left of Paradigm (formerly Unknown 67a). Sit start hands matched on a low jug rail. Reach up to a sloper and scrunch up onto the rail. Next reach out left into a large, round bowl feature. Squeeze this and stand up on the rail. Top out.


    Voice Coil V3 *
    West Side, The Upper West Side, Voice Coil Boulder (formerly Boulder #75)
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This was Project 75b). It is pretty fun.


    Voice Coil Right Variation V5 *
    West Side, The Upper West Side, Voice Coil Boulder (formerly Boulder #75)
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Fun! Start down and to the right of Voice Coil left hand on a very sloping hold, right on a pinch. Make a long move left to the arete. Make some difficult moves to get established up on the face and climb on the right side of the arete to the top.


    The following problems are on three new boulders to the west of Pilfer Boulder and slightly uphill. I am just going to give the names and ratings here. Full descriptions will be in the next guide. Enjoy!

    The Treasure Chest
    1) Is Another Mans Treasure V5 Sit start, short face.

    A New Beginning Boulder (problems listed left to right).
    1) A New Beginning V2 *** Classic arete!
    2) Hybrid V6 * Link-up.
    3) Variance V4 * Face.
    4) Metamorphosis V3 *** Awesome!
    5) Final Stages V5 ** Great!

    Under The Radar Boulder
    1) Under The Radar V2
    2) Un-Named V1

    FA's: Zach Lesch-huie, Matt Paden, and Chris Dorrity


    Unknown V6 or V7?
    West Side, The Upper West Side, 45 Degree Boulder.
    FA: Dave Sharratt
    Sit start the same as Unknown 74c). Climb up to the horizontal crack. Instead of traversing the crack out right, climb straight up the rounded arete and top out.


    Stupid Human Tricks V6
    West Side, Cluster Area, Silliness Boulder.
    This was Project 30b1).

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  2. Sterling sds. V9 or V10? **
    East Side, Middle East, Silver Platter Boulder.
    Sit start, both hands in a horizontal crack. Climb straight out the overhang and finish the same as Sterling.


    It Is Finished! V8 ***
    Central Boulders, Central Boulders, Ned's Arete Boulder.
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Classic! This is the sit start to Ned's Arete. Sit start right hand on a big sidepull, left hand on a micro-crimp sidepull, and feet on a small, ground-level ledge. Reach up left hand into a pinch and right on a sidepull and finish the same as Ned's Arete.


    Unknown V0 to V1?
    West Side, Obscure Area, Wrestling An Alligator Boulder.
    FA: Unknown
    On the (scary) wave wall behind Skinny And The Beast Boulder. Start on a big flat hold and climb up to the juggy lip using balance and what not. Fun, easy, and maybe a bit reachy.


    Zenith V11 or V12? ***
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, The Breakfast Boulder.
    Formerly project 4b in the guide. Stand start. Right hand on obvious square plate like hold, left hand on a lower crimp. Left hand to a fingery pinch, then bump again left to a good 2 finger edge. A tooth for the right hand and jump for a sloping jug and top out the same as Spicy Grits. Feels like the hardest established problem at RB. The sit start is still an obvious project and will add a grade or two of difficulty.


    Copout sds. V7 *
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Overwhelmed Boulder.
    Project 5a1 in the guide. Start sitting right hand on rounded spike, left hand very low in a hueco. Climb up to a several crimps and finish the same as Copout.


    Knob Scorcher sds. V5 *
    FA: Unknown
    Central Boulders, Central Boulders, The Wishing Well.
    Sit start, hands on a selection of small inset crimps. Get some foot edges and make a long reach for a big jug in a horizontal crack. Finish the same as Knob Scorcher.


    Grundalf V5
    West Side, The Hull Area, The Toy Boulder.
    FA: Burnett / Tweeddale
    Sit start the same as Boy Wonder with a left heel hook, crank up to slope w/left hand then slap slopers straight up. Top out directly over the short bulge, avoiding the ledge to the right. Short but good.


    Spine Tingle V1 to V2?
    East Side, The Far East, Toon Town.
    Start the same as Unknown 90a). Start hands matched in a large horizontal crack. Instead of traversing the crack out right, climb straight up the face and top out.


    The Probe V5 ***
    Take the main cliff trail up towards Zydygo / Black plant. Right before you start the steep last section to get to the cliff on the left there is a series of boulders/small cliff bands. Directly below Zydygo is a boulder with a roof about 5' feet off the ground. The Probe starts under the roof on the left side on two pinch corner things, toss up left to a sloping crimp, then bust some moves up over the lip and out. The block under the sloping crimp is off, but I don't think you could use it any way. Hope this makes sense.

    Stained V7 *
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Power Pills Boulder.
    FA: Matt Christie
    Start 10 feet to the left of I Wanna' New Drug. Start hands matched on a very small crimp. Get a small foot edge and make a reach to a big edge. Maintain this and then reach for the top of the boulder. Mantle and top out.

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  3. Ice Shelf V2
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Iceberg Boulder. (page 95).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start to the left of Iceberg, on the left side of the boulder. Start low and climb up the slab, using good edges and top out. Be careful of the landing.


    Overcome Left Variation V6 ***
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Overwhelmed Boulder. (page 95).
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Start on the same arete as Overcome. Start left hand on a sidepull, right hand on an undercling / scoop. Climb the left side of the arete all the way to the top and mantle.


    Solanum V6 **
    East Side, The Middle East, Dab Police Boulder. (page 143).
    FA: Matt Christie
    This one was Project 74c).


    The Test Right Variation V3 *
    East Side, The Far East, Black Swan. (page 152).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start the same as The Test, but instead of climbing up the black slab, stay to the right and follow a blunt, right-leaning arete. Climb up the arete, using delicate moves, and top out.


    Howie Do Dat? V5
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Paper Trail Boulder. (page 99).
    Start sitting, just left of the arête’s base. Start with left hand on a good left-facing hold and right hand on a very positive grip at the bottom of the arête, near a neon-green lichen patch. Climb up using diagonal face hold and arête, topping the arête out directly on interesting black rock.


    Optimus Prime sds. V9 or V10? ***
    West Side, The Terraces, Transformer Boulder.
    FA: Richard Burnett
    Sit start and climb up and finish the same as Optimus Prime.


    Lip Traverse V1 *
    West Side, The Hull Area, Lip Traverse Boulder. (page 30).
    FA: Unknown
    This problem is on the rectangular boulder, which is Southwest of Shady Grove. Traverse the lip of the boulder, in either direction, and top out. This problem is great for stretching out and warming up.


    Bring The Rain V4 *
    West Side, Trailside Area, Bring The Rain Boulder.
    This problem is on new boulder. When hiking north of The Blob, this boulder will be on the right side of the trail. It's a small split boulder. The problem starts right of a tree. Sit start on a good edge, ride a rail up and to the left and top out.


    Old Rasputin V1
    East Side, The Far East, Rasputin Boulder.
    FA: Brad Caldwell
    Start on the left side of a shelf with small feet. Traverse right through a slopey reach/gaston to the right edge of the shelf and top out through broken rock.


    The Seven Seas V0
    West Side, The Hull Area, The Notch. (page 33).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start just to the right of Avast Ye! Begin left hand on a large round sidepull, right on a jug sidepull. Get a high foothold and stand up on the face. Follow the hollow flake up and left to a round top out.

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  4. Continental Breakfast V2
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Continental Breakfast Boulder. (this is a new boulder. topo on page 90).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This problem is 30 feet Northwest of I Wanna' New Drug, and it faces south. Low start at a flat roof, hands at the sloping lip of the boulder. Get a distant left heel hook and reach over the lip for some good edges. Reach up left for a pinch / arete and then reach again for a huge jug.


    Breakfast Sampler V2
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Breakfast Sampler Boulder. (this is a new boulder. topo on page 90).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This problem is 25 feet North of I Wanna' New Drug, and it faces south. Start left hand on a sidepull, right hand on a large sidepull. Get a sculpted right foothold underneath the low roof and a left heel hook. Make a quick move to the crisp, incut lip of the boulder and mantle.


    Still Born V2
    West Side, The Upper West Side, Born Slippy Boulder.
    FA: Matt Paden
    Start to the left of Born Slippy, hands matched at the sloping lip of the boulder. Traverse the lip of the boulder, out and right, and top out the same as Born Slippy.


    Chiefer Sutherland V2
    West Side, The Upper West Side, Chiefer's Arete Boulder. (this is a new boulder. topo on page 64).
    FA: Mike Davis
    Sit start the same as Chiefer's Arete. Climb straight up the face, using good incut jugs. At the top, make a delicate mantle and top out. Be extremely careful of the landing.


    Chiefer's Arete V2 **
    West Side, The Upper West Side, Chiefer's Arete Boulder. (this is a new boulder. topo on page 64).
    FA: Mike Davis
    This problem is uphill and North of Boulder #70. Sit start, hands matched on a ramp / jug. Reach up for another ramp / jug, and follow this out and left to an arete. Climb directly up the excellent arete. Once near the top, climb around to the left of the arete and top out. Be extremely careful of the landing. It is a good idea to have a spotter below and one up on the ledge to the left for safety.


    Chiefer's Creepers V6 **
    West Side, The Upper West Side, Born Slippy Boulder.
    FA: Mike Davis
    Fun! Sit start to the right of Born Slippy, left hand on a small slot, right hand on a sloping block / undercling. Make a very powerful move to gain some patina flakes at the lip of the boulder. Maintain this and reach up for a left-hand sloping rib. Make a hard mantle and top out.


    Basketball Head V5 *
    West Side, The Hull Area, Shady Grove. (page 32).
    This problem is listed as Propellor Head in the guide. Use the exact same beta in the guide for this problem.


    Propeller Head V4 **
    West Side, The Hull Area, Shady Grove. (page 32).
    Stand start just to the right of Unknown 20a). Start left hand on a pinch, right hand on a sidepull. Reach up for a pair of small crimps, get some good footholds, and fire up and left for a sloper with a crystal. Mantle and top out.


    Unknown V1 **
    West Side, Cluster Area, The Cluster. (page 41).
    Start just to the right of Unknown 29a). Make a long reach up for a good edge, get established on the face and climb the excellent face to the top.


    Unknown V2 **
    West Side, Cluster Area, The Cluster. (page 41).
    Very fun! Start just to the right of Unknown V1 (mentioned above). Start right hand pinching an arete and left on a sloping crimp. Make a single difficult move to reach a mini-jug on the face. Get established on the face and make a bold move to reach the top of the boulder.

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  5. Multi Use V3
    Central Boulders, Central Boulders, Slash And Burn Boulder. (page 80).
    This is actually not a FA. For some reason, it was not included in the guide. Must have been some weird editing glitch. Anyway, if you look at the boulder topo, you can see the problem in the photo, but there is no description.
    Start the same as Slash And Burn, but instead of traversing the seam crack to the left, climb straight up the face using large textured scoops and slopers.


    Life Boat V5 **
    West Side, The Hull Area, The Hull. (page 31).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start just to the right of Hull Breach. Climb the steep slab with many small crystals to choose from. Once established on the face, delicately move to the top and stretch for the sloping lip of the boulder. Mantle and top out. Note: the diagonal seam crack, which is part of Hull Breach, up and left, is off route for use for handholds. Also, hopping of the ground to gain momentum is not allowed either.


    East Side, Slave Driver Area, Brackish Water Boulder
    FA: Dan Horne
    This is a sit start to 32e) Brackish One. Sit Start with left hand sidepull crimp and right hand pinch under roof. Throw for the start holds of brackish one with good feet. Control the swing and match, climb Brackish One. Don't know what rating to give this. Could be anything from V7-V10. Let me know what you think. Thanks.


    West Side, Obscure area, The Leprechaun Roof
    FA: Dan Horne
    This is a butt dragger,but good movement. Start to the right of where Leprechaun Promenade comes out the roof about 7+- feet. Sit start left hand under roof on a tiny crimp sidepull and right hand on a jug at the lip of the roof. Heel hook and throw right hand for a good sloper jug, match and make long move to top of the boulder. This felt about V6ish to me. I'm calling it lucky charms. (Special note. This climb was first ascended by Ned Dowling back in the late 90's. It is called Black And Tan. Due to a large tree-fall near the problem, it was left out of the guidebook).


    5 new problems on the boulder (we called it the Sweet Tea boulder) past boulder 56 in the Terraces. The problems are listed from right to left on the side facing the Terraces...

    Sweet Tea V1
    West Side, Terraces, Sweet Tea Boulder
    FA:Brad Caldwell
    Stand start on crystally crimp rail and move up with smeary feet on some slopes and crytals. Feels like a Boat Rock route.

    Sweet Tea SDS V2
    West Side, Terraces, Sweet Tea Boulder
    FA:Jared Hancock
    Sit Start on nice jug at bottom right of boulder and move up into Sweet Tea.

    Hash V1
    West Side, Terraces, Sweet Tea Boulder
    FA:Brad Caldwell
    Stand start about a foot to the right of Sweet Tea, using the left start hold for Sweet Tea as your right starting hold and your left hand starts on a small slopey ledge. Move up with smeary feet to the top.

    Cornbread V3
    West Side, Terraces, Sweet Tea Boulder
    FA:Jared Hancock
    Sit start on the left side of boulder with a pair of small slopey sidepulls. Move up to a sidepull rail and finally up left to the top.

    Grits V1
    West Side, Terraces, Sweet Tea Boulder
    FA:Jared Hancock
    Sit start on the double arete on the left side of boulder. With smeary feet move up the aretes to the top.


    Earl Greyer V2
    East Side, Breakfast, Power Pills Boulder
    FA: Brad Caldwell
    This problem starts on the backside of the Power Pills Boulder and opposite the problem French Press. Sit start with a good left foot and hands matched low on the fin. Move up to the rail, then to the top and mantle.
    Sunday, November 22, 2009


    Fire sds. V7 *
    East Side, The Middle East, Fire & Ice Boulder. (page 141).
    This was Project c3).


    Dry Heave V2
    East Side, Slaver Driver, Brackish Water Boulder
    FA: Ben Newton
    Start about 15 ft. left of Brackish One, a few feet to the right of the arete on a large jug. Make a big move up and left and reach your way up the short face.


    Firewater V4
    East Side, Slave Driver, Brackish Water Boulder
    FA: Ben Newton
    Start the same as Brackish One and work your way into the horizontal crack. Traverse into (and finish) Dry Heave.

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  6. Moonshiner V7
    East Side, The Middle East, Dab Police Boulder
    FA: Matt Christie and Richard Burnett 12/3/09.
    This was project 74d in the guidebook.
    Go climb it, it's an awesome big move! Tell us how hard you think it is. Certainly harder than Dab Police and Solanum which are 6's found on the same boulder.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Overcome V8 ***
    East Side, Breakfast Boulders, Overwhelmed Boulder.
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This problem is Unknown 5c on page 95 in the guide.


    Orthopedic Connection V7 to V9? **
    West Side, Trailside Area, Trailside Boulder.
    FA: Greg Loomis
    Start the same as The Dime Crack. Instead of traversing to the left, make a long reach, up and right, for an undercling. Get established on this and then climb straight up the face to the top.


    He Man sds. V7 or V8? ***
    East Side, Slave Driver Area, TV Kids Boulder.
    The true line!!! Sit start at the base of the arete. Reach high for some texture on the arete. Squeeze hard and reach for the left hand starting hold for He Man. Climb He Man as per usual. A great line.


    She Ra V4 or V5? **
    East Side, Slave Driver Area, TV Kids Boulder.
    FA: Matt Christie/ Richard Burnett
    Start immediately right of He Man with left hand underclinging the He Man arete and right hand on a miserable sloping edge. Reach up and right to a tiny crystal / sloper, arrange your feet and make a big move with the left hand to a good, sloping edge. Climb to the top. A very fun slab climb.


    Double Happiness V2 *
    West Side, Trailside Area, Double Happiness Boulder (new boulder).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This small boulder is to the right of Breakout Boulder. Sit start hands on some edges. Make a short campus move to some good edges over a bulge. Make a long move to the top of the boulder and mantle.


    Belly Of The Whale V6 ***
    West Side, Trailside Area, Moby Dick.
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Excellent! Start a few feet left of Unknown 16e). Sit start left hand on a small shelf, right on a big sidepull. Climb the initial bulge and get into a left hand undercling. Make a huge reach for a sloping crimp near the lip of the boulder. Match this and move delicately through a series of black slopers and top out.


    The following two problems are on a new boulder! We called it the Zorro Boulder. If you are at Boulder #25, walk Southwest for about 20 meters to find this 10 foot tall, round boulder.


    Mexican Robinhood V3 *
    West Side, The Hull Area, Zorro Boulder.
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Low start, hands on some sidepulls. Make a tough move to a textured sloper, get some footholds, and reach for a jug at the lip of the boulder. Mantle and top out.


    Zorro Arete V5 ***
    West Side, The Hull Area, Zorro Boulder.
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Awesome! Sit start on the right arete of the boulder, left hand on a sharp sidepull and right on a sidepull. Climb up the arete using very sharp holds to a long move to reach the top of the boulder. Mantle and top out.


    Unknown V7 ***
    West Side, The Hull Area, Delusions Of Grandeur Boulder (formerly Boulder #27).
    FA: Dave Sharratt
    Classic! It is hard to imagine that this amazing problem was right in front of us the whole time and no one had done it!
    Start to the left of Unknown 27d), directly on the arete, left hand on a sloper, right on a sidepull. Climb the difficult arete using a series of sidepulls and slopers to the top of the boulder. Mantle and top out.


    Unknown V2 *
    West Side, The Hull Area, Delusions Of Grandeur Boulder (formerly Boulder #27).
    FA: Unknown
    Start just to the left of Unknown 27d), hands matched on a slanted sidepull. Make a tough move to reach the lip of the boulder. Mantle and top out.

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  8. Pocket Protector V6 *
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Short Circuit Boulder.
    FA: Ben Newton
    This is called Short Circuit Direct V8 in the guide. It is problem 8a1). It is now sent and re-named Pocket Protector.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Tape On Your Glasses V6 *
    East Side, The Breakfast Area, Short Circuit Boulder.
    FA: Ben Newton
    Start the same as Short Circuit and Pocket Protector. Traverse the short lip out and to the right to gain a large right-hand sidepull. Get a good right foothold on a block underneath the lip of the boulder. Get a left heel hook and make a difficult mantle to reach the top of the boulder.

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  10. Dr. No V0
    East Side, The Far East, 007 Boulder (formerly a side boulder of The Bond Boulder).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Sit start on the West side of the boulder. Traverse the slanted left arete of the boulder to the top.

    ReplyDelete
  11. From Russia With Love V0
    East Side, The Far East, 007 Boulder (formerly a side boulder of The Bond Boulder).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start in the middle of the boulder on the south face. Climb the slab, up and slightly to the left, without using the left arete. Finish with some fun moves at the top.

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  12. Voltron V2
    East Side, The Far East, Toon Town.
    FA: Jared Hancock
    Sit start to the right of Transformers, hands matched at an incut rail, in a small right-facing dihedral, underneath a roof. Climb out the roof and out the small dihedral. reach up to some slopers on the lip of the boulder and make a delicate mantle to the top.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Thunder Cats V5 *
    East Side, The Far East, Toon Town.
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This is Unknown 90b) in the guide. The original start to this fun problem used to begin down and right at a sit start. Over the past years, the original holds have broken, disintegrated, and are wet to the point that it can not be climbed this way anymore. I did a new start that begins sitting on the left side of the large prow / arete. Sit start left hand on a slot / crimp and right on a sloping edge. Get a left heel hook and make a long move for a distant edge. Climb out and right to some great edges and jugs on the lip of the prow. Continue up the prow to the top of the boulder.

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  14. Loon V0
    East Side, The Far East, Black Swan.
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    This is a fun problem suited well for beginners! Start the same as Black Swan but immediately roll over onto the slab and climb it all the way to the top, using huge textured jugs.

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  15. Family Tree V0
    West Side, The Terraces, Domestic Affairs Boulder.
    FA: Unknown
    Start 10 feet to the left of Bobby Brown Bulge. Start hands matched on a large incut flake. Get some good foot edges and make a long reach for a good two-finger bucket. Reach up for good holds and mantle.

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  16. Unknown V4
    West Side, The Cluster Area, The Top Rope Boulder.
    This was Project 34c. I do not know the name of it yet, but I will post it soon.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Hobotron 5000 V8
    West Side, The Cluster Area, The Top Rope Boulder.
    Start the same as Unknown 34c), but traverse to the left along a series of sloping crimps to gain the upper slab of the boulder. Once on the upper slab, carefully downclimb and jump to the pads.

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  18. Bobby Brown Bulge V8
    West Side, The Terraces, Domestic Affairs Boulder.
    This was Project 51a). A shout out goes to Ben Newton for getting the FA on 1/9/10! This was a three year project that he sent in style!

    ReplyDelete
  19. Santoku V3
    West Side. The Terraces, Zwilling Boulder.
    Start six feet to the right of Zwilling, left hand on a protruding tab / edge, right on a sloper. Make a difficult move out right to a large sloper, reach up for some more large slopers, and mantle press to top out.

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  20. The following problems Zach Lesch-huie, Matt Paden, Ehrin Irvin, and myself put up during the Winter of 2008.

    Well-Heeled Gentlemen Boulder (large boulder left and uphill of The Patio Roof. All problems are listed from left to right).
    1) Coherence V2 Face on backside of boulder
    2) Evil K-Kneevil V4 *** Kneebar start to classic prow.
    3) So, A Knee Walked Into A Bar... V5 * Right variation of Evil K-Kneevil.
    4) Well-Heeled Gentlemen V6 ** Sit start at low jug. Climb into crescent finger crack.
    5) Dental Pick Crack V1 * Prominent crack in middle of boulder.
    6) Project (Dental Pick Crack Variation). Climb face to the right of Dental Pick Crack. Mid way up face, traverse left into Dental Pick Crack and finish the same as Dental Pick Crack.
    7) Red Shift V4 *** Climb the face into the striking finger crack.
    8) Red Shift Left V0 Climb Red Shift and then escape left when the difficulties increase.
    9) Reverse Polarity V3 Climb the pillar formed by two wide cracks.
    10) Random Sample V2 * Climb the right-most pillar.

    The Conduit Boulder (smaller boulder to the left of Well-Heeled Gentlemen Boulder).
    1) The Conduit V0 Start low and traverse the lip of the boulder from left to right, uphill.
    2) Project (The Conduit Sit). Sit start at a slanted sloper. Make a very hard move to the sloping lip of the boulder and finish the same as The Conduit.

    The Television Boulder (Boulder to the left, uphill, and behind Well-Heeled Gentlemen Boulder).
    1) Hug Your Television V1 * Climb the center of the prow / arete of the boulder.

    Chamber Pot Boulder (a large slab / block boulder leaning against a small slabby cliffline (The Mystery Slab). Problems are listed from left to right).
    1) Chamber Pot V3 * Start on the shady North side of the boulder. Low start hands matched on a sloping ledge. Climb up the overhanging arete and top out.
    2) Big Booty Hoes V0 Climb the left side of the nice slab
    3) Chamber Maid V0 Climb the center of the nice slab.
    4) Ladies In Waiting V0 Climb the right side of the nice slab.

    The Mystery Slab (large, slabby cliffline embedded in the hillside).
    1) The Mystery Slab V3 * This one starts on the far right side of the slab, to the right of Chamber Pot Boulder. Sit start at a low, incut flake / jug. Climb over the difficult bulge and top out on a sloping ledge. Once on the ledge, walk off to the right. This problem already had very old looking chalk on the starting hold when I came across it, thus the "mystery".

    Stash Arete Boulder (Sharp, wave-like nose arete pointing North).
    1) Stash Arete V1 Low start, hands matched on the right side of the arete. Climb the right side of the arete up until the left side of the arete can be gained. Finish directly up the arete. This one is similar to a less steep version of the problem, Wrestling An Alligator.

    55. The Annex (this boulder is #55 in the guide. There is a new problem on the West face of the boulder and here it is).
    1) Crawl Space V3 * Sit start on the right side of the face. Traverse the lip of the boulder all the way to the left and mantle.

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  21. Midnight At The Oasis V5 **
    West Side, The Terraces, The Liza Minelli Boulder (page 57).
    This was Project 50d). Start a few feet to the left of a tree, hands on some underclings. Make a dynamic mantle and get established on the hanging shelf. Reach up and left for a small undercling flake. Use this to reach some small crimps at the lip and keep it together for the technical slab moves at the top.

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  22. Fresh Water V11 ***
    East Side, The Slave Driver Area, The Brackish Boulder (page 114).
    This was Project 32c2). Awesome!

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  23. Salt Water V9 ***
    East Side, The Slave Driver Area, The Brackish Boulder (page 115).
    This is the sit start to Brackish One. This one looks very powerful!

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  24. Johnny Unitas V6 **
    West Side, Washing Machine Area, The Washing Machine.
    FA: Eric Eigner
    Start 15 feet to the right of The Bowl. Start by standing on an imbedded rock spike in the ground. Reach up into some underclings, step onto the steep wall and reach up to a flat edge at the lip of the boulder. Make a difficult mantle to get on top of the boulder. Once at the top, either top out or jump back down to the pads. The sit start to this problem is a project.

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  25. Nagul Hide V? ***
    East Side, Slave Driver Area, The Student Boulder.
    FA: Matt Bosley
    This was project 24c). This was a long standing 10 year project. Way to go Matt!!!

    ReplyDelete
  26. Homewrecker Sit V11 ***
    West Side, Washing Machine Area, The Washing Machine.
    FA: Matt Bosley
    This is the sit start to Homewrecker. Awesome job Matt!

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  27. Homewrecker V10 ***
    West Side, Washing Machine Area, The Washing Machine.
    FA: Greg Loomis
    This is not a new problem. I am just re-posting this due to many folks feeling that the grade is V10.

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  28. Greyskull V8?
    East Side, The Slave Driver Area, TV Kids Boulder (page 116).
    FA: Richard Barnett
    This was Project 34l) Great Work!

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  29. The Denial V3
    West Side, Trailside Area, Gateway Boulders (Right Boulder)(page 22).
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start 10 feet to the right of Keys To Heaven (formerly known as Unknown 10b)). Sit start at a very short finger crack. Get a left hand pinch in the finger crack and a right hand crimp or undercling. Use a good right heel hook on a small ledge and reach up for a sloping, black edge. Bump to a good jug and then reach for the lip and mantle.

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  30. Look At 'Em Shine V3
    West Side, Washing Machine Area, The Washing Machine (page 49).
    FA: Jim Horton
    This was Project 41a). Start on the Northeast side of the boulder, hands matched on a good edge / flake. Get some foot edges and make a long reach, out and left, to a sloper with a crystal on it. Get a high left foothold on a ramp and bump your left hand to another sloper. Reach over for some good crystals and turn onto the slab. Continue up the slab if you dare or downclimb.

    This one has an awesome looking sit start as well. Sit start 12 feet to the right, hands on some wide, sloping huecos. Traverse the steep face, using a series of coarse sidepulls, edges, and gastons to reach the starting hold of the stand start, Look At 'Em Shine. Finish the same as Look At 'Em Shine.

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  31. All of the following problems are on the Northernmost boulder in The Gateway Boulders group. These problems have been climbed for years now and I feel that they deserve some names and problem descriptions.

    In the guidebook, this boulder has one problem on it. It is Unknown 10m).

    All of these names I just made up (with exception of a few), so if you feel that they could be improved, just let me know!

    We named this boulder The Family Boulder. The first problem listed begins on the Western tip of the boulder. The problems are listed from left to right, circumnavigating the boulder in a counter-clockwise fashion.

    Soccer Mom V0 **
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Begin on the Western tip of the boulder. follow the rising arete / ridge on the South face of the boulder to the top. Mantle.

    Sibling Rivalry V0 *
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Low start on a low incut crimp. Step up onto the slab and friction climb the slab to the top.

    Sunny Afternoon V0 *
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Start on a nice incut jug - flake. Climb up and slightly left up the face to the top.

    Family Ties V0 **
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Start the same as Sunny Afternoon but follow the incut flake system up and right to the top.

    Family Feud V1 *
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Sit start to the right of a tree, hands matched on a flat edge. Make a difficult move up to some incut crimps and follow the interesting face to the top.

    Game Night V0
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Sit start hands matched on a large, detached, vertical flake. Make a short move to the lip of the boulder and mantle.

    Funky Mutt V0
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Camilla Christainsen
    Start on the South face of the Easternmost tip of the boulder. Sit start at several jugs / flakes. Make a tough move out left to a sloping ledge. Reach up to the lip of the boulder and top out.

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  32. The following problems are located on The Family Boulder (North Face).

    Nuclear Family V0
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Start on the North face of the Easternmost tip of the boulder. Sit start at a nose / arete feature. Reach up and grab the sloping arete and heave over on top of the arete. Follow the short arete to the top.

    Middle Class V2
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Start hands on some crystalline edges. Follow edges and slopers up and to the right to top out.

    Split Decision V6 *
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Chris Dorrity
    Start inside a corridor where the boulder is split into two sections. Sit start left hand on a pinch, right hand on a vertical crimp. Make a difficult move to a sloper on the right arete, reach out left to a nice vertical pinch in the middle of the face. Reach up to the sloping lip of the boulder and make a difficult mantle. Be careful of the landing.

    Married With Children V1
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Climb the dark slab with slopers to the top.

    Family Outing V0
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Climb the dark slab with slopers and edges to the top.

    Tailgate Party V0
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Unknown
    Climb the Short face with large left-facing flakes and a notable, large crystal for a foothold at the bottom. Climb the short face into a bowl / ledge and top out. This problem is also the downclimb for most problems of this boulder.

    Family Vacation V5
    West Side, Trailside Area, The Family Boulder (page 22)
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    Start on Soccer Mom and circumnavigate the entire boulder in either direction. Note, this problem does not climb on the two, split boulders to the East that have the problems Middle Class, Nuclear Family, and Funky Mutt.

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  33. Mothership Connection V4
    West Side, (New Area, New Boulder)
    FA: Ben Kegan
    There will be more information about this problem as it becomes available. As for now, climb the arete.

    ReplyDelete
  34. Bop Gun Arete V7
    West Side, (New Area, New Boulder)
    FA: Ben Kegan
    There will be more information about this problem as it becomes available. This is the sit start to Mothership Connection.

    ReplyDelete
  35. Karma Police Sit V9 ***
    West Side, The Hull Area, The Loaf (page 35)
    FA: Doug Ianuario
    This is the sit start to Karma Police.

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  36. Honest Abe V8 ***
    East Side, The Slave Driver Area, The Slave Driver Boulder (page 111)
    FA: Ben Newton
    This was Project 25i).

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  37. Self Inflicted V10 **
    West Side, The Upper West Side, 45 Degree Boulder (page 66)
    FA: Nate Hefner
    This was Project 74c4).

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  38. Wide Load V5 **
    East Side, The Southeast, Wide Load Boulder (new boulder)
    FA: Zach Lesch-huie
    This square-cut block boulder is downhill from the Red Clouds Above Boulder, next to a creekbed. Start on the overhanging side of the block and squeeze, slap, and heel-hook up the fun double arete feature.

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  39. Burning V7 **
    East Side, The Middle East, Fire & Ice Boulder (page 142)
    FA: Howie Feinsilber
    This was Project 72f1).

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  40. Z Slab V7 *
    East Side, The Slave Driver Area, TV Kids Boulder (page 116)
    FA: Pascal Robert
    This was Project 34j) This line is the original project. This line was mislabeled as She-Ra in this post. She-Ra is a new line and not this problem. She-Ra starts on the He-Man arete to the left of this problem. Z Slab starts 10 feet to the right of She-Ra and follows the textured slab straight up, without using the arete.

    ReplyDelete