Your comments on grade changes

Here you can post any grade changes that you feel need to be made.

28 comments:

  1. Just wanted to give my imput on freshwater. I feel like a more accurate grade is v10. It felt harder than clearwater but easier than pilfer. Also nate flashed it, and it would be his first flash at a grade of v10 or harder.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Napoleon Complex? V6 Really? Did a hold break in the past three weeks?

    ReplyDelete
  3. TRP - Are you saying that Napoleon Complex is easy or hard for the grade? If you stay to the left, on the bulge, it is V6. If you climb on any of the large holds to the right, then that is the problem 56c) Unknown V0.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I suppose what I am saying is that V6 is a surprising grade for Napoleon Complex seeing as how I have to work my ass off to climb V5 so you can imagine my surprise at climbing V6 in a handful of attempts. Grade as you wish, I'll take the V6! PS Thanks for the site.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Scientific Method at the Hanging Chain boulders is a 6...maybe a 5...killer problem for sure, just not a 7.

    ReplyDelete
  6. True on Scientific Method! I did that thing on the last possible day of the season last Spring. It was so hard to hang onto that sloper topout! V5 or V6 :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hey Matt,

    I was just thinking. Did you do Scientific Method from the sit start to the right. If you do the standing start (at the large block jug) it is about V5. However, I did the FA from the sitting start down and right, starting on Initial Hypothesis, and then traversing left into the stand start at the block jug. Just wondering. From this start it is probably V6 and not V7 since conditions are much better now than when I did it last spring :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. I did it from the sit down and right where initial hypothesis begins as well. Seemed like the place to start to me. That first move is great! Big move!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hey Chris,

    I was hoping you could clarify two of the East Side grade changes for me. Why was panhandler changed from a V8 to a V5? I understand a downgrade from an 8 to a 7, but 5 seems too low. It felt significantly harder than Pit BBQ and Grease Pit. Was I missing secret beta or something?

    I was also wondering about the Sunnyside Up downgrade. Again, I agree that it's not V8, or even V7, but V4 seems unfair. The group I was with had a harder time with this then the V7's on the boulder. Maybe a grade of V6 would be more fair?

    ReplyDelete
  10. Hey Jcoop,

    Thanks for the post. I'm glad that you posted this comment, because I was thinking the same thing. These problems are underrated right now, so in the next guide they will reflect a more difficult grade.

    I guess Panhandler may be V7 and Sunnyside Up to V6 as well.

    Thanks again! God Bless, Chris

    ReplyDelete
  11. Thanks for the quick response Chris! They're both amazing problems.

    And thanks for managing this blog, it's probably a pretty thankless job, but the Rumbling Bald community appreciates you and your hard work!

    ReplyDelete
  12. You are welcome, and thank you too!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Is Slave Driver set to stay at V3 in the new guide? Consensus has always seemed to be that it needs an upgrade.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Moreover though, my crew and i have always had the hardest time figuring out how to differentiate the other lines. Slave Driver is of course the super classic line but with a 2, 3, 4, and 5 (Dredd Scott) all crammed on that small space of wall, we've always had a hard time determining what separates the lines. Any help?

    Cheers

    ReplyDelete
  15. Yes... Slave driver will be V4 in the next guide. To make it feel like a V3 again, get a handjam in the starting hold, pull straight out, and reach up for the edges above. If you are good at handjams, this move may feel easy. However, most pull on the slick sloping jug and it is V4 for sure this way :) This is also posted in the "Grade Changes" section of this blog as well.

    Also, the problem Southern Man, V4 will not be in the next guide. Back in the day when we first put up those problems, Southern Man went straight up using a sharp flake / crimp hold with your right hand and continued straight up. Dred Scott used to go up and head more right then most people climb it now-a-days. So back then the problems were still very close but farther apart than they are today. The way people climb these two problems today, many holds are shared, which just about eliminates the moves on Southern Man.

    I hope this helps!

    ReplyDelete
  16. This past weekend the a large portion of the second handhold on Torque Master at the slave driver area broke off. The move still goes though it's a bit harder I think. Might want to check it out. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  17. I think Creeper is VERY soft for a V8. Walk up the hill and try breakout if you want to feel a 2-move V8 to compare it to. V7 is more accurate. Feels similar but easier than Chinese water torture. Good problem though

    ReplyDelete
  18. Sent Tim the Wizard today in ~4 goes at the end of my second day on. Didn't feel like V10 to me, more like V9. I admit it's beta intensive but there will soon be video online to show everyone the beta. It's SOOO much easier than Pilfer, Kamikaze and Resevoir dogs which I've done or tried recently. This suggested downgrade doesn't take away from the fact that it's a great line. I'll have to try the sit next time I'm out to see if it ads enough pump to make it a V10.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I found Kamikaze and Tim the Wizard to be about the same difficulty though I agree that the latter is way more beta intensive.
      Dan said that the sit to Tim the Wizard added some pump but didn't add too much difficulty.

      Delete
  19. Climbed Born Slippery V9 #71a today in a session. I don't think this thing is climbed very often. Great problem but I think V7 is more accurate. I started matched on the sloping rail and was able to get a high right foot and reach the intermediate & then the obvious rail. Great rock & movement but V7.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Dorrity told me that the V9 starts on the crescent hold lower down. Unclear in the guide. Hopefully the next edition will clear this up.

      Delete
  20. To the Eggstream is a V6. You can just rock over on the left heal and it's not bad.

    Blasphemous Kumquat is a V8. Great incut crimppers but not a V10

    ReplyDelete
  21. Is "Harder than it Seams" strictly on the left seam? Seems soft for V6. Softer than red sleigh down. If the right seam is off (for feet) it would be harder than it felt yesterday. The V4 to the right spit me off numerous times while Harder than it Seams went on my second try.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Hey guys. I don't want this to come across in a negative way, but I can't see how Reservoir Dogs is correctly graded at v10. I tried it for an hour, changed my foot beta slightly, and sent it next go. A couple weeks later, my friend sent it second try (after almost flashing it). Neither of us have come close to sending v10 in one session, and we both thought the problem was easier than Karma Police. This is a great line on such a beautiful boulder, but I really think it needs to be downgraded to v7 or v8. Peace!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. C'mon son! You and JAR are just straight BEAST!!!

      Delete
    2. Spencer BiedrzyckiMonday, November 25, 2013

      I think there's some general confusion about this line. I was out there yesterday trying Reservoir Dogs and a couple guys from Boone were doing it from the start of Karma Police while the guide has it starting from the big flake to the left (definitely harder, in my opinion).

      Who did the FA on this? Is the crimp rail on Karma Police usable, or are you not supposed to use anything on that line? Either way, the movement is cool, but I just can't see how this would be downgraded to V7 or 8. We were making slow progress with a crew of guys all climbing in the v9-10 range.

      Delete