Your comments on new problems

Here you can post any information about new problems.

57 comments:

  1. really obvious line but don't think it has been done yet links underdog start to the transformers finish on toon town boulder in the far east. Felt about V5/V6, any knowledge if its been done before?

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  2. Good new problem! I had thought about that link-up before but never got around to doing it. Give it a name, cartoon name of course :)

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  3. Space Ghost seems like a decent enough name since old school cartoons were much better than the stuff on t.v. today and He-man is already taken. By the way grade is pure speculation especially since the temps aren't anywhere near optimal yet.

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  4. Great name! I'll put it in the list of new info for the second edition! Those temps make such a difference. On a warm day, things will feel next to impossible, and then on a cool day you will cruise up stuff! I'll be down there in about a month. God Bless!

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  5. Here are a few new routes located on the backside of the Monster Cereal boulder (new) that’s just to the left of the Broadcast boulder (#7) and faces the Berry Patio in the Breakfast area on the East Side...

    Fruit Brute V1
    East Side, Breakfast, Monster Cereal boulder
    FA: Brad Caldwell
    This problem is on the low corner facing Franken Berry. SDS in the hole under the overhanging point with right hand on a small edge/crimp and left hand low on the lip…paste your feet on and make a couple of moves up and right to the juggy point and mantle on its right side to top out.

    Count Chocula V2*
    East Side, Breakfast, Monster Cereal boulder
    FA: Brad Caldwell
    This problem is located about 5 feet to the right of Fruit Brute. SDS with feet under the bulge on some small chips, right hand on the good flat edge just over the bulge and left hand on one of the sidepulls…make a few moves up to the top edge of the boulder and mantle.

    Fruity Yummy Mummy V0
    East Side, Breakfast, Monster Cereal boulder
    FA: Brad Caldwell
    This problem starts on the far right side of the boulder, about 5-10 feet from Count Chocula. SDS on the low corner, make your way up and left to gain the top edge and traverse this out to the left to top out near Count Chocula.

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  6. Do you know if anyone has done a direct finish to Why? (boulder 36, cluster area)? I did it last week and thought it would be funny to call it Why Not?. If you already press out the mantle you might as well top out the boulder instead of stepping off of it. It's around a v2/v3.

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  7. Brian,

    That is too funny! Of Course I will add it to the guide :)

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  8. Great! I was hoping someone would find it humorous. Maybe the humor will inspire people to crush out the little obscure beast!

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  9. Trailside Traverse V5**
    West Side, Trailside Area, Trailside Boulder
    FA: ?
    This great but overlooked problem climbs the business of Unknown (7e) then immediately traverses right across worsening rails before topping out at The Campus Problem (7d). Go to 4:20 on this video (http://vimeo.com/24188968) to see me doing this problem in 2002. Note: My ascent in this video was before a helpful (probably not key) foothold broke, so the problem may now be slightly harder.

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  10. Did the sit start to tim the wizard today. As far as I know this is an fa. Definitely makes it a bit harder, but hard to say if it's an 11. I'd probably give it a slash grade of 10/11. Awesome line. Sooo cryptic!

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    1. FYI Dan texted me this. "The sit starts right hand where your heel prob started and left side pull underneath. There would also be a different sit start into those problems starting completely under the overhang on a low right hand sidepull( small crimp rail) and tiny left hand sidepull. I was able to pull my ass off the ground and throw but not close to sticking the first move. Probably v12 or harder!"

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  11. Project f1 on the notch has been sent.

    Baby Momma Drama ** v8/v9

    F.A. Nate Hefner

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  12. I think that Project 21f1 on The Notch Boulders was sent a few seasons back by Eric Eigner. He called it Snatch V9.

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  13. 2 new in the central area (well one probably done before but unknown name/grade)

    On the Wishing Well boulder, start on bruce leap, match on the ramp, and reach high right for a slopy dish. Match this, follow the choss back into (and finish on) bruce leap.
    FA: Unknown (but maybe this guy?)
    grade: v6?

    On the slash and burn boulder, what was the project to the right of pascal's route has suffered a broken hold and has gone.

    Start on two crimps beneath the large, incut right-facing sidepull. Gain the sidepull and reach straight up for a sloper. Fancy footwork and dynamic moves to a spicy topout.
    FA: Ben Newton
    Name: Ben's rig
    Grade: V5? (need consensus, ahem)

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  14. Mike Louis put up a new problem in the Slave Driver area to the right of Vomit (32c pg 114). It starts on any of the myriad of starting holds and moves up the crimps in the seam to a slopey topout. It's called Muddy Waters and we think it's V3.

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  15. Sent the egg project. Calling it blasphemous kumquat. grade v10. Also did a sit start to honest abe starting at the crimp rail a couple feet to the right of the stand start holds. Calling it honest able. grade v10? kinda on the fence on whether its 9 or 10.

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    1. Nice job Dan. I've been looking at that line for a while. Way to dispense with the stand and add the sit. I'm looking forward to trying to repeat it.

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    2. Repeated blasphemous kumquat today 2nd go. Great problem but I don't think it's a 10. V8 seems more accurate. Started matched on lowest jug, used intermediate to bump & match incut flake, moved right to bigger incut and then threw the feet to the right. Knee bar and topout. Best incut crimpers on a roof at the bald. Great addition. Nice FA Dan

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    3. I wonder whether Dan used the foot ledge & arete on BK? I used both (using Greg's beta) and agree with the v8 suggestion, but a more difficult (and maybe purer?) line could go by not moving to the huge foot ledge and arete, but just tossing to the lip from the right crimp. Matching on this crimp without the foot ledge and then making the big move straight to the lip would probably make the problem v10. This option could be considered an eliminant since you're avoiding features that are easily in reach from the right crimp, but it also seems more pure in that it stays under the roof longer. Thoughts?

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  16. Ben's rig has a sit start:

    Start hands just above the pedestal about 15 feet right of pascal's problem. Move up to the seam and traverse under the sidepull jug and the do Ben's rig. Thinking around about V8. Also I'd like to revise the stand start to a consensus of V7. If you want to see the video go to: http://vimeo.com/38938805

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  17. Sent Project 74c1 in the east side on the Dab Police boulder today. Ran into it randomly and decided to do it.
    74c was called solenum and given v6 so I'm calling this one solenoid and giving it a v6/v7. It is a bit longer and harder. It feels comparable to Brackish Water and 11:11 in terms of the grade.
    As far as I know, this one is an FA.

    Broken Holds"
    A hold broke on 11:11 but its about the same.
    I also think a hold broke on Sterling. I'm not positive because I haven't done it before. But looking at it and feeling it I'm pretty sure the upper right hand start crimp is broken now. It feels significantly harder than v9.

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    1. Steven, nice job on solenoid. Its interesting that you feel brackish is a 7. I originally called brackish direct an 8 and had wondered if the line most people call brackish might be a 7. I'll have to reclimb it next season to comment.

      Yes I noticed the crux hold on Sterling broke. What a bummer. Atleast there is still something that is possible to pull on. All the best,

      Greg

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    2. There is a lot of discussion but I feel like the long line that ends on Brackish One is a 7 and Brackish Middle feels like an 8 to me.

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  18. Stinkles V6

    First Rumbling Bald FA of the 2012 Winter season. Can't believe I had missed this one in the past. Steep face to an arete. Pretty classic steep pulling on edges. Enjoy.

    Walk past "The Politician", past "Come Out and Play" and up the hill like you're going to "The Middle East". At the point where the trail cuts R and crawls under / over a number of trees look to your left. There is a overhung face and a prominent arete. Start on the lowest edges and make your way to the arete and a slopey topout.

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    1. Is this the one that is up towards the Cereal Buttress area?
      Because I found something that was super ticked and pretty cool and I think this describes it kind of well.
      Starts almost in a little cave where two boulders meet?

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    2. Yup that sounds like it but not my tick marks. I usually clean off my tickmarks after the session :) Enjoy

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  19. Put down project 11k on the trailside boulder today. Great temps and an excellent crew cheering me on. I'm calling it Loomis' Layback V9. Had to make the reference to Lewis' Lunge. Another classic on this great block. Enjoy

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    1. Start L hand on undercling and jump start to obvious R hand undercling on the face. Use small L hand gaston to move to R hand sidepull/undercling. Stand up and dyno to the large edges above.

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  20. Good job Greg! How bout some beta so I can add it to the guide?

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  21. I climbed what I think is a new problem on the Pit BBQ boulder two days ago. I started on Grease Pit, did the first left hand move, then climbed straight up the blunt arete. The business section is all about getting to and using a grainy "all-thumb" pinch for the left hand. I'm calling it Hot Tongs (V7). While clearly not as classic as the other problems on the boulder, it's there and it's worth doing.

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    1. Nice job. I'll be sure to check it out next time I'm up there.

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  22. Put up two new problems today.

    Stack & Deliver V8: Start to the right of 11:11 by stacking pads to reach a cool sloping pinch loaf with both hands. Pull on and use a crimp up and R to gain the sloping topout holds. Good temps w/ Emile, Ben & Tom spotting. Thanks guys

    11:12 V7/8: Do 11:11 and then match the top right edge. Make a right hand move up and right to a sloping pinch. Use this to reach a sloping rail and rock over left. Just adds another move to a classic at the field. Makes it a bit harder

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  23. Torque Wrench V10: Pat Goodman put down project 24d1 on the loaf boulder a few years back. Taylor McNeill recently came close to repeating it and got some video which you can see here.

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152391542695595&set=vb.754360594&type=2&theater

    Another classic hard problem at the bald

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  24. Ben's Grundle V6: Ben spotted this line and I was lucky enough to climb it first. Start on 31b Clumsy Waiter and traverse left into 31a Chainsaw Art. Unique & fun movement on underclings and slopers

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  25. Eliminate your Anger V9: Dan Horne showed me this a couple of days ago and I got it. It's harder than Anger is a gift and not an eliminate. Start on the left hand side pull and the bad crimp beside it, hold off the ground, and then crank up to the crimps.

    Video: https://vimeo.com/56704454

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  27. New problem on the west side- "royal blue" v5ish??
    Jump start/ push off detached boulder to gain sloper on the left side of the boulder then move up and right on slopey crimps to the apex of the boulder. Right next to project 53b but not listed in the book- top out is the same as project.

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  28. Video of royal blue FA
    http://vimeo.com/m/57183875

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    1. Hey Justinisnot, Nice job on Royal Blue. Just so you know, this problem has already seen an FA. I did it 2 or 3 years ago with a few friends. We named it Roll Out. I like your name better, so let's keep it!

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  29. Another V2 addition to the V2 Boulder on the East Side.

    Cramped V2
    East Side, Politician Area, V2 Boulder

    Located to the left of Urinal Cake, this problem shares UC's same dilemma...climbing out of a very cramped space. SDS on the big rail/edge on the left side of the overhanging backside of the V2 Boulder, make the move to the nice juggy fin up and left, get your feet, and top out.

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  30. Here's a few more easier routes. It seems impossible that I'm the first person to climb these routes since the new East Side trail has been in for a couple of months now, but I'm going to go ahead and give these routes names so they arent additions to the "Unknowns" at the Bald...

    Springtime Boulder:
    This is the obvious lowball boulder seen to the left as you're hiking in to the East Side Boulders on the recently rerouted approach trail...best approached by cutting left at the last switchback, just before cresting the hill while heading to the Breakfast Area.

    Daffodil V0
    SDS on the downhill side of the boulder, just around the short arete from Bloodroot, and move up past a sidepull/gaston feature to the top lip of the boulder and mantle.

    Bloodroot V1
    SDS on the trail side of the boulder, on the left side of the low overhang with hands in the slots, move up onto the left hand arete and short face and mantle.

    Tiger Lily V3
    SDS on the trail side of the boulder, on the right side of the low overhang, with hands in the slots...move up using some small slopey crimps to establish yourself on the short face and top out.

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  31. Nate Draughn sent project 74b2 on the 45 boulder calling it "The End" V10

    He also did the 2nd ascent of Jaba the Hut V11 which is project 24d1 on the roof below Reservoir dogs

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    1. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200886785720869&set=vb.1501621474&type=2&theater

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    2. Isn't that Torque Wrench?

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  32. Hey Anonymous,

    Torque Wrench starts a hair to the right in the roof. You do not use the side of the boulder with your left hand. All the holds are underneath and in the roof. There may be a crazy hard link-up starting on Jabba The Hut and going into Torque Wrench!

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    1. Hey Chris, so do you know for sure that Torque wrench started at the very back? Seems fairly redunculous to do this and not use the left side of the boulder. I'm confused on what Goodman actually did

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  33. Hey I was wondering if this blog had any information on the project listed 10c on pg 97? Just wondering the grade b/c I got really close and will probably send next time Im on the east side.

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  34. Hey Kensie,

    You would be getting the FA on that problem! Keep it up!

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  35. Cool, I think Zenith is broken too.

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  36. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  37. Cool, I think Zenith is broken too

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  38. I have a feeling this one's been done before, but am more curious if anyone has worked the lower start- it will be very hard.

    To the right of big bully, start left hand low on sidepull, high right hand on cool pinch sidepull. Climb around the arete on bad slopers, mantle then continue up the not bad (but dirty) slab. If its not been done I was thinking it could be called Ruffian Prow, its about V4.

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    1. Hey Ben, Did you build the obvious landing for this problem? If not, I doubt it's an FA. I looked at this one a LONG time ago but never did it because I wanted to build a landing. Someone actually did it but I don't know who. I guess we can ask around. It also looks like you could do this one an finish on Big Bully. Watch out

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  39. A big rock on the back side of trail side boulder broke off and third slid out of the way. This created what a group of us believe to be 2 new problems. The first is a traverse that I posted on YouTube that I called reach around traverse. It starts in the back corner climbs up and left to the over hang and then traverses left to a nice top out on the arette

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    1. The second starts under the over hang with a left hand crimp, right hand pinch. It make a big move up to a great old and finishes with a powerful mantle. So far only Javier Licon has sent this route that I know of.

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