This is a one-stop, central place, where you will find updated info about the bouldering at Rumbling Bald. Beta, name changes, grade changes, new problems, and announcements that supplement the Rumbling Bald Bouldering Guide 2nd edition are the focus of this blog.
PUBLIC COMMENTS ON GRADE CHANGES
Here you can post comments on grade changes that you feel need to be made.
I was very excited to get my hands on a copy of the second edition guide book, it's fantastic. Nothing is perfect however, so I figured I'd post here about an odd grade change/typo at The Pit Boulder. "The Panhandler" is listed as a V5 that shares it's start holds with Pit BBQ and moves to the right before climbing the tallest portion of the boulder. This problem was considered to be V8 in the past, and is significantly more difficult than Pit BBQ. As of early February the problem seemed to be unchanged (no broken holds as far as I could tell) although it was unchalked. I suspect that the opening moves have shut down most V5 climbers who have recently given it a go.
Thanks for the comment. "The Panhandler" was downgraded to V5 for the 2nd edition of the guide. It does seem to be a big change from V8 to V5. I am actually still a little undecided on the grade myself, so here is a little backstory for the grade change. Several years ago, a group of us were climbing the problems on The Pit. We climbed around on "Pit BBQ" and others. Most of us had never really tried "The Panhandler" before. We gave it a go and 3 of us onsighted it, and myself and others did it 2nd or 3rd try. So we were all wondering what was going on. So that day, we all decided that it felt more like V5 than V8. Later on, it came to my attention that we may have used a handhold that was not used on the first ascent. I can not remember exactly which hold it was because it was so many years ago. I think I remember that it may have been a hold way out right, but I can not be sure. Anyway, it would probably be good idea for a lot of folks to get on it and see what they think. We can certainly adjust the grade if needed. Thanks again for the comment! That's what makes guidebooks better and better with each edition!
I was very excited to get my hands on a copy of the second edition guide book, it's fantastic. Nothing is perfect however, so I figured I'd post here about an odd grade change/typo at The Pit Boulder.
ReplyDelete"The Panhandler" is listed as a V5 that shares it's start holds with Pit BBQ and moves to the right before climbing the tallest portion of the boulder. This problem was considered to be V8 in the past, and is significantly more difficult than Pit BBQ. As of early February the problem seemed to be unchanged (no broken holds as far as I could tell) although it was unchalked. I suspect that the opening moves have shut down most V5 climbers who have recently given it a go.
Hey Dan,
DeleteThanks for the comment. "The Panhandler" was downgraded to V5 for the 2nd edition of the guide. It does seem to be a big change from V8 to V5. I am actually still a little undecided on the grade myself, so here is a little backstory for the grade change. Several years ago, a group of us were climbing the problems on The Pit. We climbed around on "Pit BBQ" and others. Most of us had never really tried "The Panhandler" before. We gave it a go and 3 of us onsighted it, and myself and others did it 2nd or 3rd try. So we were all wondering what was going on. So that day, we all decided that it felt more like V5 than V8. Later on, it came to my attention that we may have used a handhold that was not used on the first ascent. I can not remember exactly which hold it was because it was so many years ago. I think I remember that it may have been a hold way out right, but I can not be sure. Anyway, it would probably be good idea for a lot of folks to get on it and see what they think. We can certainly adjust the grade if needed. Thanks again for the comment! That's what makes guidebooks better and better with each edition!
God Bless,
Chris
Has anyone thought about downgrading Morning Star to a V5? Despite the arete beta going at V7 the direct dyno feels just too easy to ignore.
ReplyDelete