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6 comments:

  1. West Side, cluster area, toprope boulder. Basically direct finish for #4, "Left Crack." When you hit the big triangle flake, continue up and left with a delicate foot smear to reach the horizontal crack. Traverse right to finish. There is also good potential to finish this line with "The grifter." Clean landing and well worth the time if you're in the area. FA: Dan Horseman. Suggested grade: V3 but to my knowledge it's only been done once so more input is welcome. Name: whole lotta nothin'

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  3. Hanging Chain Boulders, The Library Cluster. Not the most comfortable problem ever. Start as far back in the squeeze chimney between "The Scarlet Letter" and "The Grapes of Wrath" as possible. This problem attacks the awkward crack in the roof of this chimney. Establish an arm bar and a high fist jam, or elect to hand fist stack start in the roof crack. Invert your body off of one of these methods and shuffle along while hanging to the end of the crack. Turn right side up and top out with the help of a jug. FA: Cooper Cronk. Suggested grade: V2. Name: Crime and Punishment.

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    1. Tried it again today. The sequence listed above is breakable. Not a great climb.

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  4. Hanging Chain Boulders, The Library Cluster. Anybody done this one? Sit start in the fist crack between "The Grapes of Wrath" and "Robinson Crusoe". Take the crack for a few jams and reach for a jug on the face to climbers left. Top out with the aid of an armbar in the widening crack. FA: Cooper Cronk. Suggested Grade: V1. Name: Read Between the Lines.

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  5. More lowball choss courtesy of Cooper Cronk. Hanging Chain Boulders, The Library Cluster. This crack is located to the right of "The Great Gatsby". Sit-start in an uncomfortable little cave (where else) with hands on a finger crack and your feet high above your head in the offwidth. Make core intensive shuffle moves with your legs wedged in the crack above until you can gain the not-so-good sloper mass (where the offwidth turns into a hand crack). Get some good hand jams and lay back the bomber hand crack with feet smeared on the slab below. Top out around left, following the crack. FA: Cooper Cronk. Suggested Grade: (I don't invert much) Maybe V5? Name: The Metamorphosis.

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